Wednesday 20 October 2010

Close Reading Janis Jefferies

Our Second Year module Contextualising Craft Practice is fast taking shape as a research skills course which explores contexts of contemporary practice but also retains a conscious intention to develop students' skills as researchers and critical thinkers. At first glance this intention may seem an obvious requirement. However, striking an optimum balance between, on the one hand, introducing stimulating content, while on the other, building students' critical skills - is not at all simple. A danger is that critical or "academic" skills can seem a dull and dusty turn-off when there is so much exciting visual territory to explore. However, the strategic acquistion of critical skills is essential to fully appreciate the rich subtlety that goes on in the studio. So, for the last three years, we have been experimenting with methods which embed critical skills without losing touch with the extraordinary range of ideas and practices which now make up contemporary textiles.

Yesterday's session was a successful case in point in which the balance worked! We close read sections of Janis Jefferies [right] Textiles {in Carson and Pajaczkowska (2000) Feminist Visual Culture New York: Routledge}. However, we began by reading some lines included in a review of Seamus Heaney's new collection Human Chain. The intention was to introduce the method of close reading through parts of one of these poems without addressing the context. And we saw how without that context our interpretation of the content tended to be faulty. This led us to Jefferies' chapter.

Within a few paragraphs of that text we were deep into issues which implicated the roles and identities of women as artists/makers, and the hierachical snobbery with which, not so long ago, subjects such as Textiles were treated as "women's work." On film, we followed up Jefferies' references to Judy Chicago [left], Miriam Schapiro and Lucy Lippard, and took a look at the Guerrilla Girls' 2006 symposium at MOMA in which they explained their strategy of challenging the patriarchal control of exhibitions which continue to marginalise women artists. Our discussion was lively; students were surprised to learn that only as recently as the late 1970s and early 1980s had the pioneering work of Chicago, Schapiro, Sherman - among many others - begun to tip the balance.

We discussed how choices of materials and techniques can have political implications into which meanings are already woven; and how these can be deployed reflexively to resist stereotypical responses. The class spoke of how friends and others outside Art and Design still have scant understanding of what Textiles is as a subject; and how they are often patronised or their work misunderstood.

And how might they counter these attitudes, we wondered?

By gaining awareness of the critical debates - such as those posed by Janis Jefferies - which involve the relationship between social indentity (as women, as informed practitioners) and the radical challenge the content of their work might present. We found a marvellous line in an interview with Judy Chicago who, speaking of her influential teaching, said: "From the beginning it was a content-based pedagogical method. Find your content, then select the media that best expresses that content; and if you need to, develop the skills to mistress that medium. This is exactly how I work." In other words, a subject is not defined by it's skills or the materials it uses, but how it expresses content.

It was an enjoyable session so we celebrated with a group picture [top].

Friday 15 October 2010

Eye for details - the photo-essay as visual research




The photo-essay is a handy way of collecting together visual research in contexts where the eye notices details and moves quickly on. The purpose then is to capture eye-catching details as they occur. An essential item is of course a camera: light, pocket-sized and digital; and an eye: curious, critical and composed. The sequence of images recorded mark the eye's journey through place and presents a visual map of unexpected detours led by the eye. There can be marvellous suprises; and rather than 'views', it is often small details which best evoke particular memories or reveal unexpected connections. Hence, I try to concentrate on details just as I find them, and rather than start with much of a preconceived idea, I trust the eye and follow it. It's quite an entertaining game to play as you meander through a city like Baudelaire's flaneur.

I tried it recently in Italy. The chance to explore where I was with just eye and pocket camera seemed a worthwhile challenge and an opportunity to test the photo-essay as a potential method for our students; maybe it can be allied with studio themes, perhaps with brief captions from chosen (poetic or literary?) texts. Whichever, this way of studying appearances becomes a phenomenology of those fleeting details which cause us to hestitate and record the transience of our own passing eye.

Tuesday 12 October 2010

Cavandoli Workshop




Some of the Y2 weavers take part in the Cavandoli workshop. This is an old technique of knotting multiple weft yarns onto a single warp yarn, in this workshops forms were carved into a high density polystyrene which then provides the form that will be knotted round.

Sunday 10 October 2010

Sketchbook Pages Yr 1 2009-10

Below is a snap shot of some of our year 1 (09/10) Textile Crafts student sketchbooks. As part of their Visual Studies Module students are introduced to a variety of drawing styles and encouraged to explore and experiment with media and technique. Through the course of the year they develop an individual visual handwriting with some exciting results.

Heather Walkinshaw














Heather Irwin



































Gina Scholes

















































Hannah Green








































Lousia Crompton





































































Claire England





















































Thursday 7 October 2010

Practical Theorists: An Exhibition of Year 1 Artists' Books

Creating meaningful relationships between the primacy of practice and the development of appropriate critical skills is best done by our students within what Etienne Wenger describes as communities of practice, "Members of a community of practice are practitioners. They develop a shared repertoire of resources: experiences, stories, tools, ways of understanding, ways of addressing recurring problems." (Wenger 2010)

Our course recognises that the key motivation for students is the primacy of their practice and within this students are "practical theorists" working within a community of practice made up of peers and staff, as well wider creative and professional contexts of contemporary textiles.

Together, we are exploring methods of engaging students with theoretical material in ways which allow them to individualise critically written outcomes in formats that include practical skills.

Examples of this - of bringing theory and practice into closer alignment - are currently on show in the university library. The exhibition shows artists' books created by first year students which thematically examine images and influences, signs and symbols related to chosen themes or issues in modernist art and design. Already, we are noticing that these deliberate approaches are increasing students' ability to theorise their own practice.






Wednesday 6 October 2010

Selvedge picks 'Top of the Class'


Jade Marczynski was selected by Selvedge as one of the top 5 graduating textile students 2010 at New Designers this year. Her stitchwork captures an honest history of World War II documenting conversations with veterans and ex land army girls.

Tuesday 5 October 2010

Premier Vision Report

Please find below my rambling report and thoughts on those things I saw at Premier Vision, Sept 2010.

PV / Indigo: Sept 2010 report, Nicola Perren.

Please find below an overview of my observations from trend shows (I always find strange as they are basically a round up of what is already in full manufacturing process! Still it is an overview of the work that sits on the edge / forefront of production). It was, as ever, inspiring not only to see the work but to have ‘textiles is a huge industry’ blast you in the face – and only a representation of those who can afford and are focused at the fashion industry.

It was busy but I found every stand I visited, accommodating, welcoming and openly pleased to discuss modes of practice, the state of the business and to hear that we have students from a variety of courses who I feel have something new to bring.

I am rounding it up in our key specialism’s but I did find that some idea’s crossed all area’s and will just repeat those. My text is a round up of words that came to mind / open dialogue rather than wonderful prose…. (sometimes I also mention a craft student name – can point them out in catalogue if you do not know their work).

Please excuse any dreadful misuse of terminology…

OVERVIEW ROUND UP – key words:

Doubled up (double cloth, two sided, multi process)

Timeless (chanel, fine (oriental) paisleys, liberties in scale of pattern)

Chain effect (open weaves, grids (structurally), lace)

Faking it (printed knit structures, embroidered lace effects, embroidered dogtooth check effects, printed embroidery, printed water drip marks!)

Tame Laura Dowey – but subtler (all mixed up: plaids with florals, thickly printed process on fancy wovens, oriental fights paisley)

COLOUR (from prediction forum):

Night time (rich, space, silky, velvety)

Foody (olives, satay, smoked tea, cookie, quince)

Landscape (leaden horizons, ambiguous landscape, full bodied coldness)

Overview – fullness, roundness, rigorous, elegant, warm, desirable, nourishing.

KNIT.

Fairly plain but when there was something else it tended to have an ornamental feel – usually through cabling (hand knit) in a mid chunky state, nothing overtly chunky / oversized. Jersey fabic to die for in terms of touch, it felt soft, luxurious but not at all synthetic, raw silk feel (slightly dirty?!). Design studios a plenty had knit with an emphasis on small scale patterns (sorry but my knowledge is limited in terms but could point out a picture!), hand knit cables and crochet. The crochet tended to be used as on overlay on plain woven cloth – adding surface textures.

Mohair / fluffy surfaces but the BIG thing (everywhere) was lace from sophisticated beauty – vintage fine to quite simple and open (knitted open squares). There was some interesting mixes – knitted laces cut into strips and stitched onto knitted laces – DOUBLES.

What was missing (across the board) was the 80’s, this may be translated differently by the fashion designers but it was not clearly evident in the textiles or colouring. If anything it almost felt timeless, moving towards classic, vintage in process but not the ‘vintage’ look (no tea staining!).

There was a lot of knit presented in Indigo by british companies, but my observation was that what was being shown in there was not in PV itself – possibly be there next year but not too convinced of that. Possibly these knit design are manufactured in process’s that avoid shows such as PV – i.e. out sourcing, home industries? Chris / Ruth could answer this I’m sure.

Over all, on the knit front – v. positive, lively, real.

EMBROIDERY.

Kirsty Lyle!! Just think our Kirsty – not sure if this is really going to work, but somehow…– certain pieces were clear – architectural process (not sure of name – couching?), black on white!

Quite a lot of quilting (but not in V&A exhibition way) but two fabrics stitched together with wadding in middle. Various play’s on this – double sided: leather / fur, nylon / felt, also – stitching that holds it together was done in an ornamental manner with a wool / mohair which was subsequently felted resulting in felted overlays on sporty / crisp nylons – interesting and quite a bit of it in forums.

Overscale broderie anglaise, cross stitch effects – small stitches building up a large scale repeat. Stitched lace look.

Woven bases Рworsteds, felts, moir̩ effects, velvet, voile, netting.

Sequins – heavy application but then with chunky over hand stitch, patched sequins on fake furs which are then printed on.

Giant home made sequins – foam discs with patent surfaces – glued onto cloth – not stitched.

PRINT.

So so so soft, sumptuous, melting, INKY, rich (but soft), old tattoos, bleeding, brush marks, fluid - stunning. There did not seem to be edges as such, bleeding, water drips, ink applied to wet cloth – think star steamer gone wrong with an impatient hand painter…. but the effects were quite breath taking and EVERYWHERE.

The print seemed on the surface – not saturated (double sided effect?), not much devere but I did see a few pieces that used a students technique of ours who was selected for texprint a few years ago (name avoids me) – a new technique apparently where the print remains in the devore’d parts – devore was structured chunky stripes with small floral prints.

Printing onto silks, voiles, velvets, obvious weaves (!) - (chanel and paul smith types).

If there was a vibe at all it was mainly apparent in print it was for 60’s / 70’s softness – oriental paisleys, Laura Ashley meets Liberties at some washed out hippy festival (?) – I can smell the campfire smoke and patchouli coming off them (faintly).

With regards to indigo there was once again so much print it made you giddy – to pick out anything in particular was impossible. What I did notice was the colour – it was intense, there was no time to breath / stop: it just seemed like a colour overload with pattern to be honest. There were some quieter places where it became very graphic and clean (Peagreen) alongside companies selling vintage samples from sample books (included a lot of weave).

Animal prints (a la Robyn Lyndsay) – large scale but photographic (not hand drawn) – eagles, deer with big antlers – powerful, digitally printed and tones of grey. Power – not cute.

WEAVE.

The least represented but maybe held the greatest changes / movement (possibly a personal opinion). There was little in Indigo (except Paul Vogel) but it was clearly evident in it’s use as alternate bases for printing / embroidery and crochet overlay.

DOUBLE CLOTH madness, very clear differences in sides – nominated for virtually all the PV awards. From uber fine synthetics and silks to textured chanel derivatives and worked fur base cloth. Fur (tufted) was structured – carved / cut (embroidery technique whose name totally escapes me).

Sheens in plain, nylon jacquards with wool and subsequently felted (pretty much only sign of jacquard).

Dobby was king & queen: mohair plaids (quite open – reflecting similar moves in emb / knit), non twist – very thick – chunky extra’s, loop yarns – solid woven,.

Oversized to medium dogtooth / houndstooth – cotton / fur combo’s – contrasting yarns.


- Finally – two more observations from indigo (probably mainly useful to crafts).

VINTAGE: Quite a few companies had developed a Vintage department in which they ranged from selling non altered 2nd hand clothes (!) to completely restructured mixed up garments with a contemporary feel, they were re-made, mixed with new textiles and felt quite fresh – it was the idea / concept that was being sold (thinking of a great ex student from Glasgow on crafts).

HAND PAINTED: Came across a few companies who focused on hand painted (non-repeating) prints – felt very raw and canvassy - but utilised a number of base materials from cotton, silk to linen and knitted jersey. Mainly Como, Italy based. - Quite refreshing in the sea of digital / transfer prints. Did find a company in London and another in New York (Japanese, very established - so anti computers does not have a web site! – music to the ears of some craft students).

Julia Snowdin, knitting a graphic representation


Julia is a recent graduate who having taken part in a year of practice based placements, returned to create a knitted installation that charts the representation of the female form in current society. Watch this space for an update on what Julia is currently up to and her thoughts on placements.

Sunday 12 September 2010

Many cultured patchwork

Laura Dowey, 2010. SAMPLE 10

The multi reference textiles of Laura Dowey not only catch the eye of anyone who comes within view of Laura's collection but was also recognised by the SDC (Society of Dyers & Colourists) when she was selected as the North of England finalists in the SDC Student Awards.

Multi layered print techniques (mainly screen based) in conjunction with hand processes work onto recycled textiles that often speak of different times and generations, drawing on aboriginal, celtic, british 60's and 70's, african and east asian inspiration really does create a multi cultural patchwork vision.

London Design Week

Ayme Fitzgerald, 100% Design, 2010.

Debbie Smyth at Origin 2010.

Staff and students visit London for the feast of shows, exhibitions that are London Design Week. Shows to view include ORIGIN at Old Spitalfields Market and 100% Design at Earls Court. Reports to follow.

Student paper presentation at Teaching & Learning conference

Rebecca Matthews, 2010. SAMPLE 10

Following the success of her written work on the course, Rebecca Matthews was invited to present the verbal presentation of her monograph at the latest Teaching & Learning conference at The University of Huddersfield in Sept 2010.

A further report to follow.

SAMPLE 9 photoshoot


Jane Barnet photoshoot with Model and AndrewF the photographer, 2009. Sample 9.

Nikki Ainscow (middle) photoshoot with support from the 2nd years
Meaghan Kerry (right) and Toni Thornton (front) + model, 2009. Sample 9.


SAMPLE is the Textile Crafts brand which encompases a number of idea's including SAMPLE publishing. The main output of the publishing is an annual catalogue, the images here are taken during the photoshoot for the 2009 catalogue: SAMPLE 9. For the last 3 years we have worked closely with the Fashion Photographer: andrewF

Premier Vision & Indigo


Both images taken from Premier Vision website.

Heading off to PV and Indigo, Paris next week, looking forward to seeing what is in store, top up some knowledge and looking forward to meeting some great companies and individuals who see the benefits of working with our Textile Crafts graduates.